Surf Before You Eat

I love Thanksgiving, I really do. Some of my fondest memories are of spending the day with my family. We would hang out, watch football and relax...all day long. And I always looked forward to the feast for dinner.

I knew with certainty that I would vow to save room for dessert but would over indulge in turkey and about 10 side dishes that looked way too good to pass up. I simply couldn't resist homemade rolls.

By the time the announcement was made that dessert was to be served, I couldn't eat a single bite. Instead, I would save mine to savor later.

I had a dear friend who spent Thanksgiving in a very similar way, with one exception; he went surfing first.

I loved the idea of getting in the water on Thanksgiving, but as great as I thought that would be, the water had dropped in temperature and was much colder than I could handle. I knew if I attempted to surf, I would cramp up in the cold water. But I didn't mind tagging along to watch.

I bundled up in a warm hoodie and Ugg boots and headed out. When we arrived at the beach I was really surprised at how crowded the water was. I guess it stands to reason that if you are not a fair weather surfer (like me), and the surf is breaking, and you have the day off, well then why not surf?

I watched my friend prepare to go out with a pang of jealousy. I wanted to get in the water, I really did, but I was already freezing and I couldn't imagine being wet on top of it. So I stayed on dry land.

I watched as he paddled out.

Soon after he got to the line-up, he skillfully caught his first wave of the day. He maneuvered himself on the wave like a pro. At the end of his ride he literally dove off his board in style. He popped out of the water and used his hand to brush back his wet hair before paddling back out.

If I was feeling the pangs of jealously before, I now felt stabs of jealousy. I am the first to admit that I have a hard time staying dry when the ocean is concerned.

My friend had learned to surf when he was a kid and he never stopped. He was skilled and a blast to watch.

He was not the first person to take me out surfing (that was a disaster), but he taught me how to surf and I will forever be grateful for his patience and watchful eye keeping me safe in the water.

Unfortunately, he died a few years ago. I still miss him.

Although his loss was sudden, I know he lived a great life and incorporated surfing into his life regularly, including Thanksgiving day.

So every Thanksgiving I say a little prayer for him, and I am reminded of how fragile life is.

Today I will toast my family, my friends and give thanks to the many blessings in my life.

And I will always remember watching him surf on Thanksgiving day.