Friday, December 24, 2010

Surfing Lost One Of The Best


Last week, the surfing community around the world was stunned when Andy Irons died suddenly. He was 32.

Irons was in Puerto Rico for the Rip Curl Pro Search when he dropped out and decided to fly home to Kauai, Hawaii. There are several versions of what happened next; one thing that seems to be consistent is that Andy had a layover in Dallas and checked into a hotel.

The next morning, Andy did not respond to his wake up call and was found at 10 a.m. Andy Irons was dead.

Although there are countless reports that Andy was fighting dengue fever, a virus contracted from an infected mosquito, reports have also surfaced that prescription drugs found in his hotel room may have contributed to his death. An autopsy will provide the official cause of death.

As these reports continue to circulate, I can't help but think about Lyndie, Andy's wife, who is pregnant with their unborn son.

As a wife and a mother of two, I can only imagine how devastated Lyndie must have been when she got the fateful news. I can't imagine how she must be feeling at this moment knowing that Andy will not be there for the birth of their son in December.

I think about my husband going on a business trip and not coming home. I think about my kids and how different their lives would be if they never knew their father. And I hope this baby boy grows up finding some peace in the stories and photos of his.

In a Billabong video short film series called I Surf Because, Andy described the first wave he ever caught and how his love for surfing began at that moment. He truly had a natural talent and the gift was that he loved it.

For all of the questions swirling around about Andy, one thing is certain; he was admired by many and was well respected by fellow surfers whether they knew him personally or not. There have beenseveral paddle-outs to honor Andy, including one that took place in Manhattan Beach.

Before Andy died, I watched in awe of his talent, amazed at how effortless he made surfing look. Now I watch and mourn one of the best there ever was.

On Nov. 6, Kelly Slater clinched his 10th World Surfing Championship, which he dedicated to Andy. They were once bitter rivals, but worked out their differences, and had a mutual respect and admiration for each other.

Andy had an incredible career; he was an incredible surfer and a charismatic soul. Surfing is a better sport because he was in it.

At the end of the Billabong video short, Andy said, "I surf because, I'm always a better person when I come in."

I couldn't agree more.

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